Farm-Fresh Local Foods by Tamara Scully Before another generation becomes lost in the growing disconnect between farm and food, local foods advocates are working to bring small family farmers and consumers together in as many ways as possible. Across the metro- NY area, that effort includes a growing abundance of farmers’ markets, onfarm stands, health food stores and food cooperatives featuring local foods, restaurants teaming up with farmers to serve farm-fresh selections and even grocery store produce managers attempting to make more purchases from local farmers. But the influence of fresh food doesn’t stop there. Farmers are returning to livelihoods based on nourishing the land in order for the land to nourish the local population. They are using fewer chemicals, and more methods such as no-till, contour planting, companion planting, integrated pest management and crop rotation. These mainstays of “old-fashioned,” pre-industrial agricultural methods actually can yield as much or more food, possibly with higher nutritional content, than the “modern,” chemical-laden approach. Farmers are also offering more than just tomatoes and sweet corn. They are offering meats, cheeses, honey, heirloom vegetables, herbs, grains and breads and value-added products such as jams, pickles, milk soaps and unusual produce. There is a growing movement to legalize raw milk- unpasteurized or homogenized- straight from the cow in New Jersey, where such sales are currently illegal. New York and Connecticut, along with Pennsylvania, allow raw milk sales. With all of the energy being directed to naturally-grown, good for you and good for the earth crops, the next step is for consumers to realize that processed, artificially-flavored, enhanced or preserved foods typically found on supermarket shelves shouldn’t be the first choice for everyday eating. Lacking in any real taste, supermarket produce grown for long shelf-life and external appearance has had the flavor, texture and taste bred right out of it. In southern Connecticut, Waldingfield Farm has become famous for an extensive array of heirloom vegetables. This organic farm features an information-packed web site, and includes descriptions of the look, feel and taste of the many varieties of tomatoes, greens, eggplants, beans and melons- among many other items- which they grow. Located in Litchfield County, Waldingfield Farm prides itself on its heirlooms. “Waldingfield Farm, and other growers with taste on their agenda, have made great efforts to educate the consumer about the many complexities of the tomato and why saving the heirloom varieties from extinction is vital to our shared heritage. Over 80% of the varieties available in 1910 are now extinct!,” according to information found on the farm’s web site. Local farmers, who are picking from the fields for same or next day sales are able to grow produce that doesn’t have to look pretty several thousand miles and days away from the field. Their options depend only on local growing conditions and customer willingness to experience more than iceberg lettuce and icebox tomatoes. Purchasing food grown on a local, sustainable farm is a healthy alternative, which is worth the effort of changing shopping habits. Making local fresh-off-the-farm food the food of choice is a win-win situation for tastebuds, family farms, the environment, the local ecosystem and the local economy. Matt Pearson, of Howling Wolf Farm in Hope, NJ is all about growing food in balance and harmony with the earth and its natural rhythms. Practicing biodynamic farming, Pearson produces a wide variety of vegetables, cut flowers and raises beef, lamb, pig, turkey and chicken on pasture. Using all natural methods, with no chemical inputs and enhancing his soils with herbally-infused compost teas, he performs all activities (preparing, sowing, harvesting) according to cosmic rhythms, in order to optimize growth and yield. Maintaining the balance of the farm so that everything on the farm serves to nurture and enhance every other aspect of the farm, with minimal external inputs or farm waste, is another element of the biodynamic approach to farming. “It’s about respecting the land,” Pearson said. “Farming to me is an artistic expression. It’s my passion.” Pearson has built a thriving customer base who appreciate his methodology. Susan Leuci, coordinator of For Our Children Cooperative, is one of his regular customers, utilizing Howling Wolf’s meat and vegetables to fulfill her subscribers’ shares as much as possible. “We choose organic and local first, local (and non-organic) second, organic and regional third and long-distance organic as a last choice,” Leuci said, emphasizing the group’s belief in the value of local agriculture. Economically, eating local keeps money right at home. Rather than paying many middlemen, as food dollars from supermarkets typically do, food dollars spent for local food go directly to the farmers. Traditionally, the farmer receives a very small portion of the total food dollar. In fact, buying direct is the best way to ensure that the farmer is being paid a fair amount for his food. It also helps farmers remain independent and not become part of the agri- businesss machine, where farmers grow or raise our food under the watchful eyes of corporations. Cheryl Rogowski, of Rogowski Farm in Pine Island, NY is a passionate local foods advocate who runs a diverse, sustainable farm as well as hosting a local radio program focusing on important issue in agriculture. “A local food system is far healthier for all involved. The farmer has a higher quality of life, the fossil fuel inputs are minimized, the consumer has access to the freshest, highest quality of produce, often picked within hours of their purchase. This close proximity and minimal delivery time further decreases the size of the carbon footprint as food is not packed, stored and shipped,” Rogowski said. Ready to embark upon the journey of selecting natural, locallygrown products for your family? Use the resource box to find farms and markets in your area. And continue the journey, below, as local farmers talk about what they do and why they do it. Learning to eat seasonally and locally is not only a means of returning to a healthier lifestyle. It is also a way to return to a healthier earth. Using less packaging, less fuel, less chemicals and less processing adds up to a big decrease in the carbon footprint created by the universal, essential act of eating. Different Ways to Find Local Produce Farmers’ Markets Different markets will have varying rules on the goods producers can sell. Many markets are emphasizing strictly locally-grown foods. Beware of markets which do not enforce a locally-grown, or vendor-grown, standard. Ask the market manager for this information. Health and Natural Food Stores These stores have become advocates for local farmers, with many attempting to offer some fresh produce in- season. Some may offer canned foods or baked goods made by local farms, or sell handcrafted home and beauty products made locally. Supermarkets Traditional supermarket chains are becoming more responsive to customer requests for local produce, with varying degrees of success. Mostly, popular items such as New Jersey sweet corn or tomatoes, which are grown in volume by some larger farmers, are finding their way to the produce aisle. Alternative markets, such as Whole Foods Markets (wholefoods.com), have made efforts to source locally whenever possible. Whole Foods has recently held in-store events where local area farmers distributed samples and interacted directly with consumers. They have also sponsored events run by local foods organizations, such as last September’s Farm and Food Open House, sponsored by northwest New Jersey’s Buy Fresh Buy Local program. (buyfreshnwj.org) Talk to the produce managers to see whether any produce is locally-grown. Food Buying Cooperatives There are food cooperatives which are focused on sourcing organic products. Most of these arenot strictly purchasing locally-grown foods. Cooperatives order in bulk, capitalizing on the buying power of many members, and deliver products on a regular schedule, usually to a central delivery location. Members purchase a share, entitling them to a portion of the week’s offerings. Usually, members have some flexibility in quantity and type of products they order. There are also some cooperative buying stores, where members go to shop, just like at a regular store. Purpledragon.com or try the Co-op America search engine at: coopamerica.org/pubs/greenpages Community Supported Agriculture In a CSA, a farmer offers shares for sale with weekly pick-up. The consumer pre-pays for the season’s share, and in return receives a given amount of produce, eggs, soaps or other items offered by the farmer. Because CSAs allow the farmer a pre-determined customer base, the farmer can plan on planting a given amount of crop, knowing that he has already pre-sold it. This reduces the risk of growing food without an assured market. The farmer is able to know that he is growing for a receptive, appreciative customer-base. Pick Your Own These farms welcome you right out into the fields to pick everything from apples to berries, pumpkins and even vegetables. On-Farm Stands Many area farmers have on-farm stands, either seasonal or year-round, where they sell their product. Ask about growing practices (organic, natural, biodynamic or conventional). Inquire about which crops are grown on the farm, or come from other local farmers. Many farmers are now labeling their produce to help assist customers with this process. Farms Featured in this Article Howling Wolf Farm 25 Swayze Mill Road, Hope, NJ 07844 • (908) 459-4474 buyfreshnwj.org/webpages/howlingwolf1.htm W. Rogowski Farm 327-329 Glenwood Road, Pine Island, NY • (845) 258-4574 info@rogowskifarm.com or rogowskifarm.com Waldingfield Farm 24 East Street, Washington, CT • 860-868-7270 waldingfieldfarm.com Find Farms in Your Area Northeast Organic Farming Association (NOFA) is a non-profit organization of of nearly 4,000 farmers, gardeners and consumers working to promote healthy food, organic carming practices and a cleaner environment. NOFA-NJ maintains a list of organic farms, by county: nofanj.org NOFA-CT offers a list of Fairfield County certified organic farms here: ctnofa.org/Farms/Fairfield.php NOFA-NY maintains a listing at: nofany.org/dbapplet/certfarms.html Find CSAs & Farmer’s Markets in Your Area localharvest.org or newfarm.org both have farm locator services to help find farms, farmers markets, cooperatives and other sources of local food across the nation.